my homebrew beer

My Homebrew recipe

Steve LaFontaine

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Last edited April 18, 2011

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5 minute read

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My Homebrew recipe

I have been homebrewing way longer than 20 years. everyone who has drank my beer, from occassional drinkers to beer conniseurs say it's spectacular. It's always different but always spectacular !

when I started making it, I noticed some differences between my homebrew and factory beer. with my homebrew you never get drunk, you just drift off to sleep. and no matter how much you drink you NEVER wake up with a hangover.

when I researched I found that factory beer is really a MALT TEA with PURE GRAIN ALCOHOL added. So it is ACTUALLY A HIGHBALL! that's why it's so poisonous. HOMEBREW is healthy.

Once a friend of mine who had suffered back pain all his life, drank my homebrew for the first time. By the second bottle he was rubbing his back with a look of amazement on his face. His back pain was GONE. He immediately started making his own " BACK MEDICINE ". you can too.

BEER BREWING using OFF the SHELF beer brewing kit found in the syrups section of most grocery stores usually on bottom shelf, such as BLUE RIBBON or PREMIUM brands.

all you need is this and sugar. if you want really light beer you can just use this.

THINGS YOU NEED

one beer making kit

Two 5 gallon carboys

sugar

1 pint LIGHT CORN SYRUP

Two paper grocery bags

Two black plastic garbage bags

58 inch piece clear nontoxic plastic tubing

one pinch valve for tubing ( I started with a hose and clamp valve from a new bag type enema.)

Large spoon

funnel

One coarse airlock ( improvised airlock = submerge the end of the hose in water filled two liter soft drink bottle.)

One fine airlock

bottle caps

capper

1) MIXING Start 2 gallons of PURE WATER to boil. Don’t use chlorinated tap water because it kills the yeast. When tepid draw out a pint, dissolve a tablespoon of sugar to a pint of the water and then dissolve the YEAST. place in the sun to get started awaken the yeast. This is a STARTER.

When almost boiling use 1 gallon and mix in EXTRACT until dissolved. Pour into 5 gallon ( preferably glass) container. Into the remaining 1 gallon dissolve the sugar. The amount of sugar regulates the alcohol content. It can be from ½ lb. to 5 lbs. I like 1lb. makes a LITE beer. Pour into container. Pour in the yeast STARTER, which by now has risen to a head of foam ( that’s how you know it’s ready). Top off container with PURE water. Place COARSE AIRLOCK on carboy.

2) PRIMARY FERMENTATION Place in cool (65 to 70 degrees) dark, (you can place the carboy in a COZY made by placing it in a black trash bag and then a paper grocery bag.twist the bags around the neck. This not only blocks light but serves to insulates it as well as stabilizes the temperature, place somewhere undisturbed, until the foam sinks ( called "folding") until coarse airlock stops bubbling (approximately 3 days) and the murkiness settles some. The longer you wait at this stage the clearer your beer will be.

3) SECONDARY FERMENTATION Carefully RACK (syphon) into clean 5 gallon vessel, careful not to syphon the dregs off the bottom quart or so. Replace this quart with PURE WATER in the vessel. Let ferment until bubbling in the FINE AIRLOCK stops.

It is NOT TIME SENSITIVE. It can remain in either stage for days. Actually the longer it sits the clearer the final product.

4) BOTTLING Heat 1 to 2 quarts PURE water, dissolve in 1 lb. light corn syrup. Pour into fresh clean 5 gallon container. Syphon ( RACK ) the beer into vessel with syrup. Stir gently. You are Ready to bottle. Syphon, being careful not to suck-up dregs, and pour down side of bottle. Don’t splash.. age 12 weeks in cool (optimum 50 degrees) dark place.

　

BEER BREWING SECRETS

1) PURE WATER Although you can use tap water, let it stand a couple of days to let the chlorine escape. Well water will have dissolved minerals which will effect the quality of the final product. PURE WATER IS BEST.

2) CLEANLINESS Everything used in the process must be clean preferably STERILE..

A) To clean strange bottles the first time, soak in hot water in which you’ve dissolved a heaping tablespoon of swimming pool chlorine or a couple of tablespoons of bleach. Soak until labels soften. Remove labels. Rinse thoroughly.

B) Clean, preferably STERILE, utensils are a must.

C) Clean the carboys immediately after use. Don’t use soap. Just hot water and a bottle brush. Rinse thoroughly. Sun dry place in sun to sterilize between uses.

D) for regular used bottles, Thoroughly rinse the bottles with hot water, immediately after you pour the beer for consumption. Shake well to remove the dregs. If you let the dregs dry, it becomes difficult to clean properly. Don’t use soap, but if you do, be sure to rinse well.

3) PATIENCE

A) Wait until foam folds (sink) AND settles before you rack. Preferably until coarse airlock stops bubbling.

B) While syphoning, be careful to syphon FROM just below the surface of the carboy, TO just below the surface

of the bottle. Keep both ends beneath the liquid.

C) Do not disturb while brewing. Handling disturbs the dregs in the beer at any stage..

D) Ageing, it really isn’t ready before 8 weeks, preferably 12 weeks. We have aged as long as 2 years.

E) When pouring for consumption, pour slowly down the side of an FROSTED glass to minimize foaming.

4) DARKNESS Any light causes disturbance and cloudiness and darkens beer as well.

5) SERVE ICE COLD IN FROSTED GLASS OR PITCHER. It is impossible to drink straight from the bottle without disturbing the dregs which ruins the quality. iced glass minimizes the foaming.. Have you ever seen the old depictions of the brewmeister pouring? He’s holding it up to the light so he can see the dregs while holding the beer bottle horizontal to minimize disturbance and holding the frosted glass at an angle so it pours down the side, minimizing foam.

6) Opening the bottle do NOT SNAP OPEN the cap. that makes it foam instantly completely mixing the dregs up.

CRACK OPEN SLOWLY to relieve pressure.